As you probably know, Thanksgiving is not celebrated in England. O. Henry loves to tell people – it is a
“purely American” holiday. The English
do, however, celebrate Harvest Festival.
Of course, we’ve given thanks for successful harvests since pagan times
– the odd virgin sacrifice to the corn spirits, you know – but the tradition of
Harvest Festival as it is today began in 1843 when Reverend Robert Hawker
invited parishioners to a special thanksgiving service at his church in Morwenstow
in Cornwall. I’ve always imagined that he looked over the Atlantic Ocean from Lands End, saw Americans enjoying their
own Thanksgiving festivities and said, “It’s not fair. Why haven't the English got a similar
tradition? I shall invent one!” And he
did. England is like a spoilt child; if
someone else has something, it has to have one too. And if it can’t find one of its own, it’ll
take yours!
Nowadays, on a weekend afternoon in late September/early
October, there are "Harvest Fayres" held in church halls all over the
country at which people sell local fruits and vegetables; home-made bread, cakes
and cookies; and jams and jellies made from local fruit. There are corn dolly displays and there's usually
someone there to show you how to make a corn dolly.
The kids play old-fashioned games and watch politically incorrect puppet
shows -- Punch and Judy, anyone? If
you're lucky, there will be traditional Morris Dancing. In the spirit of plenty, everyone brings
tinned food to give to the poor. I
noticed when I was a child that many of the tins were rusty as if folks were
clearing out old items from their pantries; or they contained things like
beets, and I used to think, “I bet poor people don’t like beets any more than I
do!” I like them now but I loathed them
then.
Harvest Weekend in Winchester Cathedral, 2013 |
But there’s no family, no gathering of the clans at Harvest Festival. That’s one of the purposes of your
Thanksgiving. Christmas Day is our gathering of the clans. That’s when we have turkey, sage-and-onion stuffing,
roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, Brussels sprouts, garden peas, Christmas
pudding, brandy butter, mince pies and way, way, way too much sherry.
Having lived in America for many years, I've
learned to appreciate Thanksgiving but I believe I now know its real purpose. FOOTBALL!
I doubt that Squanto and the pilgrims had a big screen TV when they
gathered together all those years ago, but I’m sure someone threw an
oval-shaped squash that someone else caught.
I’m sure they looked at each other and said, “This is how we should give
thanks. We shall call it football!”
But I’m getting ahead of myself. My first connection with Thanksgiving was
when I was living in Dubai in the United Arab Emirates
in 1990. I worked as office manager for
an American irrigation company which was partnered in the same building with an
English landscaping company. These
companies worked together and found fame in two ways: (a) they built the first
all-grass golf course in the middle of the desert and (b) they were accused of cheating
Sheikh Mohamed, the ruler of Dubai,
out of millions of dollars. I was there for
the former event and had thankfully left before the latter.
As we approached the third week of November that year, the
American employees began to grumble. They
were upset because all other American expatriates in Dubai were being given a particular Thursday
off work. Apparently it was even more
important than usual because we were in the middle of the first Gulf War, and
emotions were running high. The “Powers
That Be” in our two companies said that it wasn’t fair for the American folks to
get a day off and not the English folks so the answer was “no”. I have to say, the English folks were secretly
quite happy about this. It could’ve been
called “Thanksgiving Envy.”
In 1991, the same thing happened…except that this year, the “Powers
That Be” decided that Thanksgiving was such a big deal for the Americans,
bigger even than Christmas, they would get a day off. Well, the English were outraged. It’s not fair they said. What about us? Why should they get the day off and not us? But that’s what happened. Thanksgiving was now recognized by all
Americans in Dubai. “Thanksgiving Envy…”
The following year, I left Dubai
shortly before Thanksgiving and found myself in Austin,
the state capital of Texas. I was visiting a friend on my way to Los Angeles to become an
actress. I met up with a nice group of
people one of whom – let’s call her Katy – invited me to her family home for
the Thanksgiving holiday. At last, I was
going to celebrate Thanksgiving! I knew
it was an honor and I treated it as such.
I dressed up in all my finery and put on my best English manners.
The extended family I met that day was delightful. They had the biggest telly I’d ever seen, like
a movie screen. Everyone has one now but
in1992, Katy’s family must’ve been one of the first. All the comfy chairs were lined up to face it
and all the men were seated really close to the screen watching what looked
like a kind of rugby match.
Everyone in the family had brought something to the table,
potluck style. After lots of hugs and
kisses, we gathered around to fill our plates.
Now Americans have a long tradition of mocking the English for our
eating habits and every one of you seems to have a story to tell about the
ghastly food you’ve been served in my country.
I know, I know...steak and kidney pie, blood pudding, jellied eels,
spotted dick, etc. But I have to say, I
didn’t know what to make of everything I saw on the table that day. I recognized the turkey of course. This had been smoked, I believe, which was
new to me, but I recognized the shape. I
recognized the mashed potatoes. But
there all recognition ended.
What’s that green, mushy stuff with the bits in it and the
grey sauce? Green bean casserole.
What’s the grey sauce made of? Mushroom soup.
What’s the yellow, squishy stuff with orange stretchy
strings on it? Squash au gratin.
What’s that orange mashed up stuff with pink goo on it? Candied yams.
What’s the pink gooey stuff?
Marshmallows.
Where are the vegetables? Those are the vegetables...
There was cornbread stuffing with funny lumps which turned
out to be oysters. There was cranberry
sauce shaped like a can. There was
giblet gravy. I served myself turkey and
mashed potatoes with small spoons-full of each vegetable. It was certainly the most colorful
celebration meal I’d ever eaten, and once I got over myself, I ate everything
on my plate and went back for seconds. But
I was in culture shock!
Then came the pies. Mm,
pies! I’ve never seen so many pies: pumpkin,
pecan, coconut cream, chocolate, key lime, apple, blueberry, peach. In fact, if I remember correctly, there were
enough pies for everyone at the party to have a pie of his or her very
own.
Following the food (especially the pies), I lay slumped on
an easy chair prepared to vegetate in front of the giant TV as folks always do
on holidays. Then I learned to my horror
I was being taken to the UT/Aggie game at the Texas Memorial Stadium. Now, I have to tell you that I didn’t know
what a UT was. I didn’t know what an Aggie
was. And I thought football was soccer…but
we won’t go into that! After many years
in Austin, I now know the significance of the
Thanksgiving football game between the University of Texas
and A&M. I also know now how lucky I
was to be attending the game itself when everyone else had to watch it on the
big-screen TV.
Back in 1992, the big game was held on Thanksgiving Day. For reasons unbeknownst to me, this was changed
to the day after Thanksgiving. Now it's changed
back. Anyway, I had the treat of joining
a large party at the sporting event of the season.
It was particularly cold that afternoon. A blue norther had blown through; the sky was
blue, the sun shone but it didn’t get above freezing all day so we dressed very
warmly. We had nosebleed seats which
means we were so high up, we could wave at people in passing planes. This was the point at which I discovered I’d
forgotten my spectacles. Added to the
fact that I’d had several glasses of wine at lunch, and that my buddy had
provided all her guests with flasks filled with the liquor of their choice
(mine was gin and tonic) I could barely see the football field, let alone the
players. I could just about discern the
difference between the two team colors though for the life of me, I had no idea
which team I was supposed to be supporting.
Katy taught me a hand signal I should use every time she elbowed
me. And every time I held up my hands
with that signal, I was to shout, “Hook ‘em, Horns, Hook ‘em!” This I did, with gusto.
I’m ashamed to say that I have no memory of the game itself,
nor do I remember the score though I think UT won. What I do remember is getting lost on the way
back from the restrooms. Let me give you
some advice, if I may. Never, ever go to
the restrooms in a football stadium just before the game ends, particularly if
you’re unfamiliar with the stadium. I
was actually sitting on the loo when the cheering rose to that crescendo which
tells you that play is over. Texas
Memorial Stadium at that time held over 75,000 people and it was full that
day. When I came out of the Ladies’,
there were thousands of people swarming past like ants, and of course I didn’t
know where I was or where I was going. At
one point, I got swept into the current and had to spin myself out like a top.
I cowered against the wall like a lost puppy and
waited. I didn’t know what else to
do. Cell-phones weren’t common then; I
certainly didn’t have one. Eventually,
as the crowds thinned, I heard a distant voice calling “Bernadette, Bernadette!” “Over here,” I shouted, “I'm over here.” Eventually a tall, shadowy figure appeared in
the tunnel ahead of me, like Red Adair or John Wayne, “Come on, little lady.” I nearly sobbed. If it hadn’t been for that extremely
loud-voiced gentleman, one of my new-found friends, I’d probably still be there
now.
I’ve never been to another live football game though my
American husband is a great supporter and I’ve sat through hundreds of games of
TV. However, I have cooked several
Thanksgiving dinners, American-style, of my own. I’ve also cooked English-style turkey dinners.
My mother-in-law won’t eat my roast potatoes. Mind you, she’s from Louisiana and she complains every time she’s
served potatoes in any shape or form since she believes the only real carbohydrate
is rice. Vive la difference, I say, because my stepsons love my roast
potatoes and they love my sage-and-onion stuffing and they love my Yorkshire
pudding. They’ve given my Brussels sprouts a try
and once or twice actually swallowed a couple by accident. I have made my own version of green bean
casserole, I’ve even made squash au gratin and I’m a huge fan of pies, “Hook
‘em, pies, hook ‘em”! But I have never
made, and I have no intention of ever making, candied yams. I believe there is something profoundly wrong
with using pink marshmallows in cooking.
And I’m sure that Squanto would agree.